Décryptage du polyester recyclé : 5 conseils pour le consommer de manière responsable
Publié le24 septembre 2021CatégorieAstucesJournalMatières
Le polyester est une fibre textile synthétique, fabriquée à partir de PET (polyethynene terephtalate). Il s’agit donc d’un dérivé du pétrole, conçu par le biais d’un procédé chimique. Lorsque l’on parle de polyester recyclé, on rencontre souvent l’acronyme « rPET » pour « recycled PET ». Ce deuxième type de polyester, issu de ressources déjà existantes, constitue une alternative plus durable au polyester conventionnel pour plusieurs raisons, exposées ci-dessous.
Mais comme pour tout processus de transformation, il présente également quelques limites importantes à souligner. Le polyester recyclé est une matière écoresponsable quand on la consomme de manière raisonnée. Dans cet article, nous vous aidons à comprendre comment l’utiliser au mieux, en prenant conscience de ses avantages et impacts environnementaux.
Les avantages écologiques du polyester recyclé
Les principaux avantages du polyester recyclé se présentent au début du cycle de vie du vêtement. En premier lieu, il permet d’éviter l’extraction et la fabrication d’une nouvelle matière première. Grâce à cela, nous devenons moins dépendants à l’énergie fossile non renouvelable qu’est le pétrole. Aussi, le processus de recyclage du polyester s’avère bien moins énergivore qu’une production complète. Selon une étude de l’Office Fédéral de l’Environnement (OFEV), il demanderait moitié moins d’énergie, et générerait 32 % de CO2 en moins que le polyester vierge.
Le polyester recyclé participe également à dépolluer l’environnement d’une certaine façon. La plupart des vêtements en rPET sont fabriqués à partir de déchets plastiques (bouteilles, filets de pêche, etc.) récoltés dans les océans et sur les plages. Même si ce plastique ne disparaît pas de la surface de la Terre, il connaît ainsi une seconde vie et ne reste pas en décomposition dans la nature. C’est une manière de valoriser des matériaux dont on dispose déjà pour créer des textiles solides et adaptés.
Les impacts environnementaux du polyester recyclé
Vous le savez, la matière la moins polluante restera toujours celle que l’on ne produit pas. Et pour cause, chaque processus de fabrication ou de transformation présente son lot de conséquences, parfois plus regrettables que d’autres. Pour ce qui est du polyester recyclé, nous identifions trois limites notables.
Pour assurer une meilleure résistance aux vêtements, le rPET est souvent mêlé à du polyester conventionnel, à d’autres matières synthétiques, ou à du coton. Le recyclage de fibres mélangées est quasiment impossible à l’heure actuelle et empêche donc le développement d’une économie circulaire.
La seconde problématique intervient durant la phase d’utilisation du produit par le consommateur. Et oui, le polyester recyclé libère lui aussi des microparticules de plastique à chaque lavage, qui polluent les cours d’eau et océans.
En fin de vie, un vêtement en rPET non recyclable (car détérioré ou mélangé) devient inévitablement un déchet non biodégradable, stocké en décharge puis enfoui ou incinéré.
Conseils pour consommer le polyester recyclé de manière responsable
Malgré ces problématiques, le rPET reste une matière plus écologique que le polyester vierge. Il contribue à une démarche globale de développement durable dans la mode. Afin de limiter les impacts négatifs des textiles en polyester recyclé, nous vous donnons 5 conseils pour les consommer de manière responsable :
1 — Privilégier les vêtements 100 % rPET quand c’est possible, pour éviter le mélange de fibres.
2 — Favoriser le rPET pour des vêtements ou accessoires qui ne se lavent que très peu (vestes, chaussures, sacs…) et des pièces techniques pour lesquelles il est presque irremplaçable (maillots de bain, polaires, vêtements de sport…)
3 — Utiliser un sac de lavage filtrant, type Guppy Friend, pour retenir une partie des microparticules de plastique lors des machines.
4 — Prendre soin de ses vêtements pour les garder le plus longtemps possible, et leur donner une seconde vie, grâce à la revente ou à l’up-cycling, quand c’est possible.
5 — Ne pas acheter plus, sous prétexte que c’est une matière recyclée. L’objectif n’est pas de choisir des vêtements plus responsables par acquit de conscience, tout en continuant à en acheter toutes les semaines. Dans la mode éthique, la devise reste toujours de consommer moins, mais mieux !
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